Fashion Fix: Concealed Zip Edition


Disclaimer: If your garment kicks out at the back this may not be due to a zip too long in length but an imbalance of the pattern leading to excess fabric swinging out. In this case, we've got away with swapping out the zip to solve the problem. 

I'm going to try the layout of this post a little differently and list the steps with a photo catalogue to follow. Let me know your thoughts in the comments if it's equally clear to follow. This fashion fix can be used for any amendment needed involving replacement of a zip. This dress in question had a loose lining which has also been taken into account. You can see from the image the problem area. 


Step One:

Measure and unpick the zip with care. Take time removing stitches, especially with a lightweight fabric like this.

Step Two:

We've ensure our machine needle is appropriate for the fabric, a thicker needle would snag the material and cause issues. In this case of shortening the zip we've measured the length at which to close the seam and sewn accordingly. 

Step Three:

Stitch and press. 


We can now check on a mannequin or figure if at this stage shortening the zip will fix the issue with the balance of the pattern. As we are working with a lightweight fabric the drape quality has allowed us to get away with this method. 

Step Four

Pin your new zip right sides together to the outer fabric. You can run an iron carefully along the teeth before to ensure your stitch line gets as close as possible and maintains the concealed finish we're going for.

Step Five

Zip up your fastening to align the zip to the garment when closed. A great tip is to notch (snip) with scissors any seamlines or mark with tailor's chalk to ensure you're pinning in the correct place and the finish will be neat and match at the right places. 


If your lining is sewn up to the hem, simply unpick part of the hem to enable you to turn the garment inside out and hand sew back together once finished. 

Step six

With the lining of this garment being loose we are able to turn the whole thing inside out and repeat the process by pinning the zip right sides together to the lining fabric. Always pin within the seam allowances to avoid damaging the fabric.


With the zip effectively sandwiched between the two layers turn your garment right side out and give it a good press. You may need to sew the seam up a little more where the zip finished to avoid any holes, so take note if this is the case. 


We now have a replaced concealed zip that is as neat on the outside as it is in reverse, which we all know to be an important detail in quality fashion. Let me know how you get on with any fashion fix edition in the comments or if there's a particular problem of your own you would love help with. Until next time you can find me on twitter for a chat or instagram for a daily visual update, in the meantime, enjoy reconnecting to your clothes.